Top Cup Pattern Alteration

I just made myself a very pretty bra, but forgot to follow my own directions of testing the fit before actually cutting the good fabric. I discovered that the pattern for the top cup that I have included in my book may need to be altered. When I made my sample, the strap point on the front cut way to far to my arm.

To make a quick fix of the top cup, trace off the top cup onto another piece of paper. Fold the two ends towards each other. Crease the center clearly. Open it back up and take the side with the strap placement on it and fold it towards the center crease line. Line up the edge of the cup to the crease line and press the new fold line. This line marks the 1/4 point on the cup. From this point, begin your strap placement. I just altered the 34G and had to move the strap placement over by a full inch.

Sorry the image being sideways. I can’t figure how to rotate the image in Blogger.

  1. hi
    first of all ,hundreds of thanks for writing your bra book,I received it on saturday and will be giving it a grat review on the lingerie list I belong to,as well as telling all my friends
    I live in the uk and tried to buy this from amazon uk as postage is high if I buy from the USA.I managed to find a used copy,I love it
    is it possible to buy the extra size bra patterns in a download please,I understand that I did not buy the book from you,but I was wondering if the patterns are available for people like me in the uk
    thanks again for a great book ,am now saving for the other book you have out and am looking forward to the next ones you write

  2. hi jennifer lynne,I do have your book and extra downloads so again thanks,may I ask please do you have any plans to make patterns with a bigger band size available please,I am on a lingerie list and a lot of ladies were hoping you would have patterns available that were larger than a forty band,they do not wish to draft a pattern,would you consider it please?

  3. Jane,
    Up to what size band and cup size are you all looking for? I've got a little time off coming up soon so I can try to work on adding the larger band sizes. I'm a little concerned that the grading up to the larger sizes will be a little inaccurate and will need fit modifications.

  4. Hi, Jennifer, I also own the book and the downloaded patterns.

    I'm fortunate enough to not need to have a larger band size, but I know many ladies who do. (My personal issue is needing a smaller cup for my band size than is usually carried in the stores.) I like the convenience of being able to print just the pages of the download that have my size, rather than having to trace them from the book. When things calm down a bit here, I plan to try your pattern and see if I need to alter the cup any smaller or not. I'm really looking forward to trying your wire-free design!

    From the lingerie list I'm on, it seems there is a real need for ladies in the 40 inch band to about the 48 inch band range. If you were to offer a second pattern download that covered that range, I'm sure it would gather a small but loyal group of fans! The book, plus the larger-size download, would probably be a popular option.

    I will let some of the other ladies comment as to exactly how big they need the patterns to go, that but is my impression from things they've said on the list. Personally, I don't mind having to alter and/or grade something up or down, but it is intimidating to many women. Even though your book shows how it is done, they don't think they can do it successfully. I've even seen someone post that your book is "useless" to them because you don't have a larger band size pattern I hope you can offer some patterns that go larger than a 40 to give these woman some hope and some help!

  5. Thanks for the feedback. I don't mean to leave anyone out. I will mark on my to-do-list to go up to 48, I'm just nervous about doing the F+ range on those bands. The larger I grade up, there are more chances for errors.

    I had actually tried to grade down to a 28 and 26 and the shapes got really strange so I stopped and didn't make those available.

    The size I'm grading from is a 34G, which was pretty much right in the middle of the range I produced. Perhaps if I can get a volunteer to test a pattern at about a 44F, that might be better for the grading of the larger bands. Feel free to spread the word.

  6. Hey Jennifer, thanks for this update. I've added a link to it (and to the downlodable version of the patterns) to my review of the book. I'm super busy with uni at the moment, but as soon as I find a block of free time I will draft up a pattern using your directions- I can then compare that to the included pattern for my size and let you know if there's a difference.

  7. Great. Thanks for the review and definitely let me know if you have any discrepancies. When I was developing them I drafted several different sizes and then used that to develop the grading directions. The strap placement directions for grade need to be revised, as shown above. I'm also thinking I might want to revise the strap placement directions for the drafting, but haven't found a happy medium placement for it. Any and all input is appreciated.

  8. Cool, just went through the drafting and had a couple of questions: by chest measurement do you mean high bust (above breast tissue) or at the widest point i.e. across the bust point/ nipples? Also wrt the cup draft, the directions say draft from the left side of the garment with the center fron seam to the right side, does this mean from the left of the left breast to the center of the body/ ribcage? I apologise if these questions sound totally strange-this is all very new to me XD

  9. The chest measurement is above the breast tissue. The orientation of the drafting directions are on the left, so if you are doing custom, draft the left bust and reverse the orientation to the right side for the right bust, or keep as left and flip the pattern after completing it. Generally speaking, the right side of a woman is larger. This is because most people are right handed, although sometimes the opposite happens, as in my case.

    I'm not sure what you mean regarding your last question. The cup draft is only of the cup and doesn't include any part of the band.

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