Measuring for our patterns
I have been working diligently on creating about 150 sizes of my 3 piece bra cup to cover sizes 28A through 50J (Sizes AA and AAA are also being created for many band sizes). Because it takes several hours to grade each pattern piece, I’m going to start my sew along with a little testing of directions for measuring.
Each person who wishes to participate in my sew along with my pattern pieces, I am asking them to give me their results from different measurements. This will be helpful when I write the update to my bra book and also help me send you the right pattern to test.
After I select a size for you test, I will send you 2-3 sizes based on your measurements and ask you to sew together one cup in muslin to test for the best fit and size. This won’t be a perfect fit because I’m not designing the bra to be sewn in a woven, but in a power mesh with a stretch lace.
The reason I want the sample cup in the woven is because it is not forgiving and will tell me which size you are meant to fit into. Providing the initial fit samples don’t have major problems, I will then send you the remainder of the pattern to fit the appropriate cup size we selected for you. This gives me time to finish grading the band patterns.
While all this is going on, I will be putting together a sewing kit with fabrics, laces, trims and anything else you will need to sew a bra together. Once we have your size, I can include the most appropriate underwire for you to use.
Ok. So now that you know the conditions, here are the first set of directions for you. Lets take your measurements!
Feel free to fill out this info and email me at jennifer at porcelynne (.) com. If I have a moment to breathe this week, I’ll try to do an illustration of the measurements. If you don’t fully understand, just indicate it in the comments and I’ll try to clarify it as much as possible.
1. Your current bra size. If it varies for brands, give me 2-3 examples of sizes from different manufacturers.
2. Your under bust measurement. Snug measurement.
3. Your bust measurement. Not snug, your breast tissue is soft so it will crease easily.
4. Your chest (over bust) measurement. Snug measurement.
5. Wearing your bra, measure from the side of your bust at the center front of your body across the apex and over to the far side of the bust. This is the full amount to where the breast tissue ends. For large cups, it may measure close to being under your arm. You can also use your existing bras as a gauge and measure to where the underwire ends. If you are getting a couple different measurements, just explain the measurements and give the amounts.
6. Not wearing a bra, with your breast sitting high or hanging low, it doesn’t matter. Measure from the point where the breast leaves the body, either the beginning of the mountain or where gravity makes the breast form a pull downwards. Measure straight across the body to the other side of the breast tissue.
These numbers will help me determine how accurate measurements are and how they relate to the bra itself.
BTW- I’m in the process of moving my blog over to my main website, so I’ll include an update on this blog when I transition it over. If you follow it here, you will have to change to following it over there.