Introduction to My New Wires
I finally found a little segment of time to film my introduction to the new vertical flat wires I am carrying. Pardon my appearance. I wasn’t planning of doing the video yesterday, but I saw 15 minutes that were available to me.
This video gives a little detail on the differences of the most standard wires used – regular underwires and vertical underwires. After explaining the differences, I explain why I created the vertical flat. I’m still nailing down which size is most appropriate for me.
In traditional sizing, I am recommended to wear a 54 wire. In my testing, the 52 vertical flat fit well and barely moved on me, but once I was driving, I did feel it moving down a bit. I did not alter the bra pattern. I just switched out the wires, so its probably a combination of the pattern and possibly I need to try the 50 vertical flat.
I named these wires myself because I was the one that created them. I’m still hashing out the recommended bra sizes to wear these, so if you test them out, let me know what size worked for you (as well as what size is recommended for you in traditional charts).
Grading a Bra with PolyPattern
I had intended to hold on to these videos for later publication, but I encountered an issue when I went to do a tutorial on how to digitize with PolyPattern, so I decided to just go ahead and release the videos. They would be a little out of order for anyone who is unfamiliar with the software.
The series I just released I filmed a few months ago when I was grading my California Dreaming Bra. These videos show you how I graded it, then imported it into Illustrator to make them pretty for downloads.
I was planning on doing the digitizing tutorial, then a truing tutorial, a basic drafting a sloper, a bra drafting sloper all within PolyPattern prior to releasing this set. I changed my mind. I wanted to show how easy the software is to use for the grading and converting to download.
If you are interested in this software, you can download the demo version under the Books & Downloads tab. Play around with it and let me know what you think. Once you test it, I can give you access to the pricing info. Its actually not bad compared to other CAD software, I just can’t publish the prices to the world. You need to be a secret agent to get that info. It is in lines with the pricing of Wild Ginger’s Cameo Pattern Design and Grading modules.
I will be doing the videos of everything mentioned above, but I am heading off for the holidays in a few days for a couple weeks, so videos will pick back up in January. Although I did just create a legging pattern from kids aged 18 months through size large in kids. If I can get my butt together and do that video today, that will be the last one before the end of the year. If I don’t get to that today, then I wish you all a Happy Holiday! If I do, I’ll post about it before.
The complexity of altering a bra sloper
I created this draft of a stylized bra design from my completed draft. It a bit complex if you have never done pattern drafting before, but know that there is a light at the end of the tunnel. When manipulating a pattern you need to remember this important rule – what you take away from one piece in volume you need to make it up on another pattern piece.
This isn’t going to result in a perfect fit after each pattern alteration, so it is important to test the fit prior to moving on to good fabric. I wish you all luck in this journey. The more designs you experiment with, they more knowledgeable you will become.
Here is my challenge. Draw a bra design and submit it to me for a drafting tutorial. I am open to as many as possibly. Let me know what your starting bra is and we can work from there. Not all designs must be created from your initial draft, so if you are daring, maybe submit the new design and scan and send in your starting pattern as well. The more challenges I receive, the more education I can pass on. You can email them to me at jennifer at porcelynne. For me to post, I will need to know which pattern you are starting from (if its another design out there) with the link to the product so I can share it will everyone.
Here are your videos for today.
Splitting the Lower cup from the Bra Draft
I have done a few new videos and this is the latest. This takes the drafted bra sloper we created and splits the lower cup for fit. This will help you get a better idea of the fit. Splitting the lower cup is really just for practice as you may not want a cup with a straight seam across the cup with the split lower cup. This is a good first step to understanding the manipulations involved with changing a bra draft.
Altering your Bra Pattern for a Different Size Wire
I worked on this little video after I had a few questions regarding using a different wire size with my bra pattern. This one is specifically for changing the wire size, but not the wire type. I will work on a different video for changing the wire type.
Drafting Videos 5..6..7..8..
I finally was able to finish the drafting for the bra sloper. Its in 4 parts. It gets pretty mathematical, so be forewarned.
Enjoy. Coming soon will be pattern alterations.
To Error is Human
I never claim to be perfect, so please never quote me as so. I actually skipped a step when drafting the back of the band, but this video shows you how to compensate for missing the step.
Drafting has Commenced
To put a smile on everyone’s face, I have finally filmed my first set of drafting videos for creating your own bra sloper. I’ll keep this short, as I know everyone wants to begin drafting yesterday, so here it goes. Happy watching!
I goofed again
For those of you getting ready to follow my draft, I just realized I goofed on a chart in my new book! Agg! I did this last time too. I swear all this math will get the best of me yet. I posted a bra size chart in one of my videos and it was off by 2 sizes on everything! I triple checked that stupid wire chart about 10 times and changed it that many times as well before the update of the book. I know it was correct, so a little gremlin must be sabotaging me. I’m so sorry if someone bought the wrong wire based on my video. I will make it up to you I promise.
Final set of measurements for the custom draft
I had intentions of getting this video done on Monday, but my shop was a disaster and I had to work on cleaning my desk off. I finally completed clearing my desk off yesterday, so here is the promised video. Please disregard my difficulty in holding my wires for measurements. Please measure in front of a mirror and not in front of a camera.
These directions are what you will need for your custom drafted sloper. I’ll begin recording the drafting tomorrow, but they might not be available until next week.
Another reason I have been slow to post is that I’ve been working on grading a new pattern for my website and in the process, I recorded the steps with the software on how I did it. Those won’t be available until after I complete the drafting directions, so know I have some goodies coming soon.
I make a mistake in the video when I’m talking about the wire size I’m using. See if you can find it.