Preliminary steps for drafting your own bra
I made a couple “raw” videos on measuring. These are just the first steps. There will an additional measuring video once we begin our draft. I will be filming the draft in many steps and will so shorter 5-8 minute videos of each step so its easier to keep up. But for now, this first video is a basic how to measure for your “standard” bra size. I put standard into quotes, because no body actually really fits a standard size.
The standard size measure is to find your starting point. In this video I measured 37 under and 41 over and chose the 38 band to work with. One thing I didn’t mention is that if I were to try on a ready to wear bra, I might also try the 40 band, but step down to the I cup.
Bras are complicated and there is really no one right way to do it. So take a deep breath and forget the numbers and letters you are coming up with and just go with the flow.
This second video is to help you determine which wires to try out when ordering. The larger the cup, the more challenges you might have, so you might need a wider range of wires to test. If you are smaller, meaning you are less than a G cup, you can probably try the suggested wire and then go up and down a size to test too. Bra making in its initial steps is going to be expensive, but once you have the hang of it, you will be creating beautiful bras and at a fraction of the price you’d be buying them in the fancy stores.
UPDATE: Before watching the following video- print this following chart out. I published the wrong size chart in both the video and the first printing of the book. I just updated it, so any new book purchases after 11-1-2016 should have the correct chart.
Remember that most places you order wires from do have a return policy, so extra wires can always be returned, but as a small business I need to express – you will be responsible for shipping costs for returns whether the wires you order fit you or not. And I know this goes for all the other bra wire suppliers out there too. Wires do not come in a one size fits all package. There can be hundreds to choose from, including demi, short, long, etc. The draft we will be working on is a full coverage “block.”
This means that this draft can be manipulated into other shapes and sizes, so your initial draft might not be the best shape for you. We will get to that after our draft. See you soon for our draft.
Adjusting strap placement
In this sample we are moving the strap placement.
Step 1: Draw in your seam allowance at 1/4″
Step 2: Take your two patterns pieces and overlap the seam line and tape down.
Step 3: Use the french ruler and reshape the strap position
Step 4: Cut off change and tape down to the new position.
Step 5: Separate the two pattern pieces.