Getting a Pattern Ready for Sale
As I’m trucking along in the 7th hour of putting the pattern sizes together, I keep thinking that people really don’t know what it entails to get a pattern ready for release. I am hoping I’ll have this pattern ready for release next week, but I still have hours left of making the sizes look good and have to update my directions still.
Here is my journey of labor and love for a pattern. (Apologies for not photographing more steps in my process.)
1. Initial design phase – this involves sketching and creating my initial pattern. For the Laurel, I started with my Christina Sports Bra as my base. Altering the pattern in my software is getting easier, but I used to do this step by hand.
I cut and paste the pattern together in my software, double check the seam measurements, the waistline measurements, side seam measurements, across bust measurements. Once I feel like I have a working sample, I print out the first draft and sew a sample for myself. This was my first sample
I can then evaluate major and minor changes to my base size. For the Laurel, I was able to get changes in my base size completed after this first round. For the Christina, this phase took about 6 samples. The Christina was started from scratch, so initial patterns in a new silhouette are more labor intensive.
2. Initial grade for the J cup band range – I start this grade based on the Christina grade, but because the seams are completely different, there is a lot of trial and error.
My grading is done in two parts. First for the J cup (my size) for all band sizes, then for each cup size in each band size. There is a lot of back and forth to make this work. The side seams and waistline have to remain the same as the Christina so I stay consistent in my sizing.
Then I need to make sure both sides of the princess seam line remain the same for each size increase. I also have to verify the measurement across the bust is increasing by the right amount. The last point to adjust is the strap point and a point on the armhole which affects the armhole coverage.
If you were wondering, I usually need two notebooks and a clipboard out to help me keep the numbers straight. I also have a spreadsheet I use to help me determine what each measurement should be. When I get to the size 40/42 in the range, I make changes in the pattern shapes to accomodate a slightly different body shape.
This initial grade takes about two to three 6 hour days (for the wide 150 sizes range I cover for the sports bras).
3. Writing initial directions & test fit – I do a rough set for my pattern testers to follow for testing fit of my graded range. I then send the patterns to my testers for checking fit.
I generally give about 2-3 weeks, but sometimes less if its an easy sew. At this time I take a tiny break from my patterns to work on my many other projects.
4. Test fit evaluation and changes – after reviewing 4-6 different sizes I determine if the changes that are needed are a simple grade change or a more complicated pattern change that is needed. Luckily the Laurel Sports Bra was a simple grade change. I neglected to check the measurements on the new pattern of the center front to the armhole. Most of the patterns were off by 1/2 an inch, which affected the fit for everyone.
I also discovered a little pattern problem with the waistband which caused me to have to adjust the waistband pattern and the waistline measurements of the patterns. I also realized this is a change that needs to be made on the Christina, so I will go back after all these steps and update those patterns as well. I honestly don’t think anyone would notice the issue on the Christina, but I’m a perfectionist, so I, of course, have to fix it.
5. Export patterns from software into PDF I can turn into my pattern downloads. At this point, most people might think I am nearing completion, but in actuality, I’m only about half way through this process. I next make all my lines pretty by adding styling and colors to the pattern pieces. This took me 3 hours.
6. Rearranging patterns for download – this sounds easy, but the patterns are not all together. All the A cups of each pattern piece are together and each other cup for each pattern piece are all grouped together. I have to then take each band and each cup and separate them into each band size. That alone took about 2 hours.
Once they are all in their own files, then comes the daunting task of nesting each pattern set together, adding pattern info, grainlines and sizing square. Then grouping them and placing them in the Letter, A4 and A0 formats. Each band size takes 1.5 to 2 hours to organize and get ready for downloading.
7. Filming the tutorials – I take the time to film directions and generally sew two samples together in case there are alterations I’m showing in the directions. I plan out the best steps for construction and mark up the initial direction I created to follow my tutorial.
8. Updating the directions – this generally doesn’t take too long, but I often have to illustrate steps that were not previously illustrated.
9. Editing the video tutorials
10. Creating the online listing and uploading the files for download.
11. Pattern release!
Well, there you have it. I still have from the middle of step 6 and 8-11 to complete, but I’m taking this tiny break to write this post about my process. Luckily I filmed the tutorial on Monday, so I at least have most of that done, all I need to do is film my intro for the videos.
Spiral Binding Do-it-Yourself
I almost always spiral bind the drafts of my books while I’m editing, so I am often dropping by the Office Depot to get spiral binding done. Unfortunately, my Office Depot is the only office supply store in about a 10 mile radius, so they are often overworked and understaffed.
For the last 4 binding projects, I had to drop off the book and wait until the next day to get it spiral bound and even then, they still hadn’t done it. Each spiral binding trip cost me about $5 for the binding and covers, plus about an hour of my time to drive there and back and wait.
I decided that my newest book would best be viewed in spiral format. I have thought this about all my others as well, but when you self-publish, you are slightly limited with your options. I also really wanted my book to be color (as well as all my others, but I learned how to do it this time around). The cost to print my book in color on Amazon was way more than I wanted to spend and it also would cause me to price my customer out of buying it.
Because of the cost factor associated with Amazon color printing, I chose to have my Amazon book printed in black & white. I also sell my book with a distributor using a different printing service. Luckily their color costs are about half of Amazon’s so my book sold through Ingram will be in color, but still perfect bound. The spiral option is available only by me and my manual labor.
I searched more and more and found out that I could get color copies of my book printed for personal use on Barnes & Noble Press. This is a perfect solution. I ordered 20 copies from Barnes & Noble Press in color so I could spiral bind them myself.
Now for my decision to bind them myself. I factored the price of binding 100 books at $5 each, which obviously was $500. I felt that was a little much, so I decided to price out the stack cutter and the binding machine on my own. The two machines cost about $250 total plus the coils were another $20 and the clear plastic cover sheets were another $10. So, for the grand total of $280 I could buy the machines and do the binding myself. That was really a no brainer. And I can bind any future books for only the additional cost of the additional coils.
Here is the stack cutter. I line it up and cut off 1/8″ of the spine.
Here is the stack in progress. The spines on the left, the cut books on the right and the clear covers in the middle.
The is the binding machine to cut the holes. It is a lot of work, but I got a binder that can punch up to 20 sheets at a time.
The coil binding of the machine I found to be useless. It was too difficult to control. There is one speed to it, so it is more work to try to use it than just manually coiling it. I opted to manual coil them. One of these days, when I have more patience, I will try to get the coiling part to work for me. Here is the stack before I trimmed the coils to size.
Because I had such issues with the coiling part of the machine, I wonder if I could have found a machine that punches the holes without the coiling for half the price, but I’m not going to return this one and deal with it, so I’m not going to get myself upset by looking up the price difference. I have to pick my battles and today’s battle is for my daughter to pick up her little people off the dining room floor. (I really thought she would be outgrown of the little people by now, but she likes to line them all up like they are walking around the room in a single file line. I guess it beats her playing video games.)
National Sewing Month is Here!
National Sewing Month is here! I honestly didn’t even know there was a thing called “National Sewing Month.” But a colleague in the industry reached out to me to see whether I would be interested in being a part of her celebration of National Sewing Month.
I said, “Sure, why not?”
So what’s the deal? Maddie Flanigan of Madalynne Intimates is hosting a giveaway of several sewing prizes, including one of my book Bare Essentials: Bras. It’s an Instagram sewing challenge, but she will also be awarding a $100 gift certificate to her own shop, a $200 JoAnn’s Gift Card and a year subscription to Creative Bug.
I know there are a bunch of promotions across the interwebs of the internet this month. I wish I could be more involved than I am, but hey, I’m blogging at least.
As my own personal celebration of National Sewing month, I will be de-stashing my parent’s garage of my fabric. Check out my fabric stash on my Porcelynne Business Facebook page. I have a lot of random fabrics that were left over from my store or my personal stash. When we moved, I packed them all in air tight bags and stashed them in my parent’s garage. I will be pulling fabrics out of storage all month, so check out what I have.
It does feel nice to finally go through them. My loss is your gain. I’m participating in a few events this coming weekend. On Saturday I will be at Whim-so-Doodle in Downtown St. Pete doing a crafting garage sale from 11-2. On Sunday I’ll be at Art Pool from 11am to 5pm. At Art Pool, I will have all my cool vintage fabrics and trims, Saturday is more random stuff.
Everything I don’t sell in terms of the vintage fabrics will be added to the Facebook shopping link on my facebook page.
It’s our 16th Anniversary!
This month marks the 16th anniversary of my business, Porcelynne. 16 years ago this month, I made my way across the country to San Francisco to start my lingerie design business, Porcelynne Lingerie. It has been a wild and amazing adventure thus far.
In the past, I have not celebrated my business anniversary. It never really came up and I never really had any significant announcements to make during this anniversary month. My business has changed forms over the years, from a lingerie design business, to a co-op boutique, to a retail fabric shop and now I’m just an online supply and pattern shop.
Despite my love for having a brick and mortar shop, it really does take up all your time. You are having to figure out how to make twice as much money to keep the doors open. This can pull you away from your ultimate goals just to make ends meet. When you are online only, you can actually focus on other things – like family and personal growth.
Ideally, I would have made a big deal about my 15th Anniversary, but we had just moved to Florida and we were dealing with hurricane season. Remember Hurricane Irma and Maria? That put us out of power for a week. We had just moved into our house a few weeks prior to Irma hitting Florida and we had just started to unpack. Once the chaos ended, I was back to playing catch up from our cross-country move. These are pictures of my sewing studio during the chaos.
It is now a year later, I have moved my business forward, but my storage unit is still full (aka my parent’s garage). I am actively going through my storage unit to unpack my fabric. Most of the fabric is from my store, but I do have some personal fabrics stashed in there too.
If you haven’t noticed, I rarely ever do a store-wide sale. This is mainly because I price myself fairly competitive so I am unable to really do any markdowns and keep my business afloat. I introduced the reward points a few years ago, which gives 10% back in rewards for future purchases. That is my way of offering a site-wide sale.
In the coming months, I will be releasing more patterns, books and downloads, so now is your chance to take advantage of sampling my patterns at half price.
Thanks for being a part of my journey.
How I Started Selling on Amazon and the Experiences that Followed
I first started selling on Amazon in September of 2013. I was recruited by a representative on Amazon that summer and over the course of a few months, I diligently worked on compiling a spreadsheet for them. He created a Brand account for me and held my hand (metaphysically) through the entire process. At that time, I was selling on both my website and Etsy and had just opened my retail store (not to mention my daughter was about 6 months at the time), so this was a new challenge to add to the mix.
My sales in the first few months were sad, but still probably better than I did on my website. I had about 5 sales a week for the first 2 months. It was pretty easy to manage. I shipped directly through Amazon’s interface, but pulling orders was time consuming.
At this point in my business I had not been pre-packaging any of my products, so as an order came in, I manually counted out what I was shipping and sealed them in a little plastic baggie. Selling on Amazon was really an experiment for me.
Three months passed and I spent the holidays working on adding new products to Amazon. I went from earning $100 a month on Amazon to about $400 a month by summertime. I had also moved my shop to a busier location and bought a counting scale to help me package. Believe it or not, I was counting out all my inventory manually for a year before my husband asked me one day, “Have you ever tried using a counting scale?” Not sure why it took him nearly a year for him to realize if I had, I would have used one.
What a life saver….a year late.
Amazon sales kept steady for the remainder of 2014 and it kept growing in 2015. I had very little competition on Amazon until mid 2015. More on that in just a bit. Fast forward to 2018 and Amazon continues to brings in about 40% of our revenue, allowing me to support my entire family while my husband concentrates on designing a multi-channel inventory syncing software for me. (The slated release of this amazing software is February of 2019, so stay tuned).
I am reaching my 5 year anniversary of selling on Amazon and I have learned many lessons on adaptation and reorganization. A couple years after selling on Amazon, a flood of Chinese sellers jumped on boat, tipping the scale for small businesses like mine. My best selling item, which I was selling for $25-30 suddenly dropped to zero sales. I did a little research and found that my best selling product was being offered by Chinese sellers for only $3.
That was a huge blow and I had just invested an additional $1000 into that inventory (and for the record, I still have 3 boxes of it). It hit my bottom line pretty hard. I had to step back from my business on Amazon and make some decisions. Sales had died and I needed to figure out how to get it back. The novelty of Prime was kicking in and I evaluated my options.
I packaged up all that extra inventory I couldn’t sell and sent it Amazon for Fulfillment. I also had to drop my prices to about $8 which included shipping. This also got me reevaluating my shipping costs. I had so many people complaining about shipping costs on a $3 item. I changed my products to include all my shipping charges. So instead of $3 plus shipping, I changed the item to $6 with free shipping. To my Amazon customers this was a great deal. FREE SHIPPING!!!
To help offset some of the shipping costs I also offer customers 10% off for multiple item purchases. It helped re-energize my sales.
As time passed, most of those initial Chinese sellers all were removed from Amazon. Understand that Amazon has a strict 48 hour shipping policy. You have to ship within 48 hours to keep your account in good standing. I believe there are exceptions with how you set up your account, but my account was set up for 48 hours shipping time.
Luckily this does not include weekends, so I don’t have to ship on Saturdays. If you miss shipping deadlines, your ratings decline and Amazon will not show your products on the the first several pages even if it is relevant to a product search. They will eventually remove sellers that have a negative rating, which is why all those Chinese sellers disappear shortly after they arrive. I still see this true. There have been a few products of mine this has happened to.
A few years passed and a friend at my daughter’s school told me how she had received a follow up email from an Amazon seller, checking in and asking for feedback. She suggested I do the same because she felt a personal connection to them. I thought that was a great idea and proceeded to sign up with a service that sends follow up emails. I’m not going to mention the company here because the guy has some other businesses that seem like a bit of a scam, but the email software works for me. On a side note, the email follow ups will be a feature of our software, so no extra $40 a month for that pretty soon.
The reviews really helped my page ranking too. Having the reviews on my Amazon store has been really good for business.
Amazon has another feature called Enhanced Brand Content that I have taken advantage of. I’m not sure what the deal is, if this is a feature for Brand accounts only, or if anyone can use them. They changed their Brand requirements since I joined, but I’m kind of grandfathered in. The new requirement is that you have to have a trademark of some kind to be able to have a Brand Account. Having a Brand account also negates the requirement of having UPCs.
What the Enhanced Brand Content does for me is it allows me to have a custom description for a product including additional images. This is what my underwire listing looks like.
There is also an Amazon advertising account that is linked to your store, but thats a whole other animal that I won’t be discussing here. If you are interested, comment below and I will see what I can whip up for you.
Amazon has been a fun experiment in growing my business. I feel like I got in early, but maybe I’m just seasoned now. I’ll have to write another post about how I got selling on Walmart too, but today I need to go to the gym and get a little work out in.
Check out my Amazon shop here: Porcelynne Amazon Store
In the works: The Laurel Sports Bra
Now that the pattern making book is almost ready to publish, I have decided to pick back up on some designing. My next pattern that I’m working on is called the Laurel Sports Bra. I am using the same grade rules as the Christina Sports Bra which will make it easy to interchange parts with the Laurel.
I completed my first draft of the Laurel. The front styleline goes into the neckline and the back has wider set straps. I also made the back for a hook and eye closure which will make it easier to take on and off for those of us large chested.
I have been wanting to experiment with a weaving pattern at the center front of the waistband. I couldn’t find my scraps of powermesh to do my lining, so I’ll finish up the sample another day, but I like the look so far. What do you think?
If this sample fits great, I will continue to create my pattern range of the 28A through the 52K. Hopefully this range won’t be too difficult since I mastered it once before.
I am also getting back to work on the illustration work I’ve been working on with a colleague and trying to carve out some time to work on more videos.
I started filming videos with my daughter to make her clothes. I made the Rachel Brief and Tank into a child size and am making her a bathing suit with the pattern. Maybe for once she will have a bathing suit that actually fits her torso.
I have a few more mounts for the video coming this way. I’m trying to do my set up so my husband doesn’t have to take off an entire day to do filming and then another day to do editing. Once we get our mounts on the ceiling it should make it easier to set up and make it more consistent for filming.
On the homefront, my daughter just finished her third day of kindergarten. I think she likes it. Her class has a color chart for behavior. Red being terrible behavior and White being perfect behavior. This is her third say of white and she is so proud. It sure beats those last few weeks of camp getting into fights and getting suspended. Yes, my 5 year old got suspended from camp. That was embarrassing. But she behaved well and Hanna took her over to my moms to go swimming. I think I will join suit and go for a swim. I deserve a little time with my monkey.
Not wanting to do my work
I’m sure you can all relate. I’m almost done with a project, but I just don’t want to work anymore on it, but I want it done. So, what do I do? I do random searches on Google and Etsy. Yeah. Not buying anything, just don’t want to work.
I am sitting here, on my computer, working on what may be my final edit of my drafting book and I just don’t want to do it. I am having to redo two of the exercises in the book with new illustrations and I am making excuses not to do it. I know I will finish this full edit today if I can just plow through it. Instead, I check Facebook and Instagram. Oh wait, now its lunch time. I’ll do it after lunch.
AGGGGGGG! Ok. I will stop procrastinating and get back to editing. I’ll finish this post when I’m done.
Update: 2 hours later and I finished those two exercises. It was terribly time consuming, but its done. Now I’m just taking a break after a snack. I’m on page 103 of 187 and the rest of the changes are small. So here I go again- back to the grind.
Update: 1 hour later and I’m up to page 167. I only have 20 pages to go, but the next chapter has some major changes I forgot about. I’m not so concerned about this chapter though. I’m only adding a few steps here and not completely redoing the illustrations. I’m done for the day. My daughter is home from camp so I’ll pick up again tomorrow.
Update: I finished up the full book of changes. Yay!
I’m not sure I really mentioned what I am working on, but maybe I have. I’m having a brain fart. I’ve been working on an introductory pattern drafting book since I opened my store in Redlands 5 years ago. It was a long process, but it is almost completely done. I am sending it off to my mentor, Dawn Marie, to review and fact check. I believe she is going to be writing me an amazing Foreword for the book. Here are a few pics and a sneak preview of the book.
While she is reviewing it, I will see if I can get it set up on Amazon for pre-sales. Either way, I plan to announce it onces its available.
On my ever growing project list is also a fashion illustration book I’ve been working on with one of my teachers from Redlands. I’ll post some pictures soon as it too is almost done! I will be working on the final layout changes next week. I’m really excited about this book as well.
YouTube and Life Restored
I discovered a few things this last week. Number 1 – don’t trust that the Google representatives know what they are talking about. Number 2 – I nearly lost 3 years of work and I had no way to notify my customer base what was going on.
I nearly had a total breakdown. I tried to keep it together, but the more I thought about it, the more I felt completely helpless. I kept thinking, “Was it my fault? Should I have questioned the rep more intensely before hitting the ‘remove’ button?”
Here is what happened. I’m trying to get a handle on how I look out there on the great wide web of information. If you googled “Porcelynne,” what comes up is my store in Redlands that is marked as “Permanently Closed.” Thats what started it all. I didn’t want my customers googling my company and seeing that I’m closed.
So I attempted to fix it. For some reason, I was initially unable to change the address on the google listing to the location of my new headquarters, aka Florida. I added a new location and it showed up perfectly here in a search, but my customers in California and the west coast still saw that I was permanently closed. This prompted the merge of my locations.
What I had failed to realize was that when I set up my listing 5 years ago, I registered it as a “brand” account. Anyway, that feature is no longer offered with Google, which is probably why the Google rep was clueless, but I digress. The Brand account linked to my YouTube.
With the help of Google, I was instructed to delete the California location with a guarantee that the YouTube would be relinked to the new location. Well it wasn’t. The next day, I get an email from said helper “You are not eligible for a Google My Business listing.” WHAT???
Over the course of 5 days, I emailed them 40 times, commented on their twitter and facebook pages and sent additional messages to everyone I could get a hold of. The answer from everyone else, “He told you to do what? He shouldn’t have told you that.” I’m like, “Yeah, I know that know. Can you fix it?”
To make a long story short, YouTube is fixed. I will never ever trust a Google rep like I did. And, by the way, my business is still showing up as “permanently closed.” So much for trying to get anything done this last week. I have a new set of videos to release, but those will wait until next week. I am currently working on an “Update” video.
This whole ordeal made me realize I need a better social media presence. I had been fighting it for several years, but now that my time isn’t being sucked dry by a retail storefront, I think I can manage it. I finally set up my Facebook page, and linked Instagram to both Facebook and Twitter. So I can post to all three at once.
Stay tuned for tomorrow. I will be unleashing a contest to win a $50 gift certificate on my website.
Technical difficulties – YouTube Channel Down
I am completely aware that my YouTube channel is gone. I am trying to resolve it. It is a sore subject right now, but I am aware of it. My daughter represents my present mood:
Bra Making Starter Kits are here!
I have been busy putting together kits to make your life easier. I have created three bra making starter kits in fabrics and three starter kits in hardware. I tried to make them interesting, but to be honest, they are for the beginner, working on their first bras. These are relatively low priced for a kit, but they aren’t for the pretty bras. These are for practicality and learning.
Each starter kit has enough fabric for up to three bras (if you have a very large size, you might not be able to get three bras out of it, but conserve your fabric either way). I would suggest using black thread for both the red & black kit and the white & black kit. It will show interest on the cups with black top stitching. Make note that there are no underwires included with either kit.
The fabric kits contain a fusible tricot to stabilize our Shine Tricot for the frame and the cups. When finishing the seams, try cutting a strip of the fusible tricot and iron onto the back side of the seam prior to top stitching. It will make your life easier.
The hardware kit contains hooks & eyes, strap elastic and hardware, underwire casing, picot elastic for neckline and waistband elastic.
But first thing is first – a little update on us. We exhibited at our first event in years. I wasn’t sure how it would go, but we did surprisingly well. I have boxes and boxes of vintage fabrics, which was about 50% of the items I parted with. I might one day list them on the website, but I have too many other things going on right now.
I have been busy to say the least, I have added three new patterns to my website and removed a few old ones. Over the next month, I will post about each design, including an introduction to the kits that go with them as well as the accompanying video tutorials. From this point on, every pattern I release will have a video tutorial for construction.